"2009 St Leonards Shiraz (A$25) is a good example of the finer balance now being achieved in Rutherglen reds. "This is the one", said Otton. "Quite Italianesque, with a lovely blanace of sour cherry, rosemary and slight gaminess. Spicy complexity. The tannin and acid balance is just spot on." The wine's beginning to add development to its red fruits and hints of licorice, but the fetaures I most admired were the supple balance and continuous line through the mouth. The tannins are fine and there's god length. The wine is drinking beautifully now and will develop further over several years."

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