"2011 St Leonards Lumiere, $20

The Lumiere is from St Leonards in Rutherglen and no grape is mentioned on the label. Sure, you can find out what the grape is if you want to, but you’ll need to search on the internet. I’m not going to tell you and if your friends ask, say it doesn’t matter. The Lumiere is a step up in weight from the Txakoli: fuller in the mouth, richer but not fat or oaky. It has a bright lemon colour and the nose is aromatic with yellow apples, spice and dried fruit. There is a note of tropical fruit, pineapple wonderfully ripe with fine acid that makes your mouth water. This is what wine should do. It should be refreshing, pleasing, unexpected and make you want another glass, just as this does. The face of Rutherglen is indeed changing."

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